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The Garand bolt (and I suspect the m14) can be disassembled using the Combination tool, M10 (also known as the cleaning rod handle!). You need the real deal with the 1/8" thick 'blade' in one end. Insert the SMOOTH end of the M10 (the screwdriver end; it will shoulder on the waist so it will not scratch the chamber) into the chamber, and insert a section of cleaning rod into the unthreaded hole on the M10.
Engage the blade below the lip of the extractor and GENTLY twist the M10 receiver-up using the handle. The extractor should come loose in a controlled manner. Decreasing tension on the op rod handle will let the pieces fall loose.
To reassemble, install the extractor plunger and spring, and the ejector and spring, and close tightly on the previously installed M10 (holding the tongue just "so"). While pressing the bolt in the closed direction, drop the extractor into its boss, and tap home. VOILA!
I learned this at a CMP shoot. (Help, my bolt disassembled itself!)- a few of Walt's parts (NEW springs, et al) and I was on my way!
My 'old' bolt disassembled itself, so I had a new parts (springs, extractor, plungers) in my tool kit. A CMP shooter (member of Palmetto State Marksman's Association) from North Augusta SC did the trick. I wish I could find his name. When I do, I'll forward it for credit, too!
NOTE: the SMOOTH end of the M10 is actually the end that looks like a screwdriver. The notched end has the BLADE that sticks out from the side.
Information Provided by E.M. Dannemiller II (emdannemillerii@mindspring.com), used with permission.
You can also use the M3A1 tool for the same purpose. Place the chamber brush in the chamber, the back end of the brush acts the same way the M10 back end does. And you don't even have to use a cleaning rod section.
I've used the following method with great success:
I use a bar clamp - the kind that screws onto 3/4" pipe, and two 12"
pieces of 20 guage copper [thermostat] wire, each threaded thru the holes
in the clip, then secured to the jaws of the clamp. Backing-off the clamp
screw gradually spreads the clip till the handguard can be rotated out,
same process to mount the clip. It helps to reverse the sliding tailpiece
of the clamp or it will creep.
With a bit of ingenuity, a C clamp could be made to work if a bar clamp were unavailable.
Information Provided by mike
Another suggestion involves inserting a small pin drift or piece of drill rod in the hole on the left side of the clip (opposite side of op rod). Pull out and up on the pint and the pressure will be borne by the opposite side of the clip, in the clip groove on the barrel. Done properly there is not any pressure put on the wood, and the clip will pop right off.
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